Yes, the most important navigational tool it the horn. Yes, they squeeze the vehicle in the tightest spots. Yes the speeds are inappropriate. Yes, my palms were sweaty and I was laughing (partially nervous partially fun excitement) like I do when I'm on a roller coaster.
I noticed that most cars did not have side mirrors and the ones that did were pulled in to allow for six more inches of "squeeze by" room. This makes every spot on the road a blind spot. No need to use turn signals if you don't care if anyone is next to or behind you.
Taxis are more expensive than the 3 wheel motor rickshaws, but I guess I need to get use to it before I have the courage to take one.